Lisbon, PT - Girl Meets Lisbon and Falls in Love
- regankubena353
- Jan 19, 2023
- 7 min read
I don't believe in soul mates or specifically the belief that there is only one person out there for you. I think just as you outgrow your younger self and grow into a mature version, that love can be the same way. With a person finding you at the time of your life that you needed them. I believe places can be the same way. I had little to no expectation of Lisbon when we first landed - besides the hope that it would be warm. I wasn't expecting it to take my breath away and I certainly wasn't expecting to fall in love with its bright colors, sweet pastries, and breathtaking views. Lisbon surprised me, and in all the best ways.
Before going to Lisbon, I personally was struggling. England is cold, windy, constantly overcast, and for someone used to constant heat - miserable. I missed my family and friends back in the States and I missed going outside and feeling the warmth of the sun on my skin. Stopping by my Grandma's for dinner or walking along San Antonio's river walk and watching the ducks wobble by and the turtles sunbathing. I missed the comforts of home - but as Derek and Portugal kindly reminded me, home isn't a place - it is the memories made and the laughter and tears along the way. It was my Family's warm group hug when they were saying goodbye and the cheerful toasts with my friends, it was dancing with my husband on our back porch and trying to count the stars in the sky. And it was here, in Portugal, as we sailed on the Tagus river and challenged ourselves to a Pastéis de Natas eating competition. My heart was full and light, and I felt like I was home.
To start, there was so much that I didn't know about Portugal. For example, Portugal is the oldest country in Europe. In fact, Lisbon is said to be four centuries older than Rome. Coincidentally, I found this out when I was searching for old bookstores in Portugal and was shocked to discover that Portugal was home to not only the oldest bookstore in the World but also the second-oldest bookstore in the World. There are many reasons to travel and explore the world, however, my chief and most important reasons are libraries and bookstores. To be in the oldest bookstore is an absolute dream. A physical time capsule that has made its mark on history and lived through wars and financial struggles to tell the tale. I learned so much from Portugal during my short stay, but I feel like there is SO much more to learn. I listed some recommended spots below for food, drinks, and places (spots that made it easy to fall in love with this wonderful country).
FOOD
Codfish & Sardines
Our chief mission when we arrived in the city center was to find food. Which was not hard to do at all; Cafe or Patisserie windows proudly displayed mouth-watering pastries and staff members stopped you as you walked by to proudly display their menus. The main ingredient of the day: Cod Fish. I learned that Portugal is the world's biggest consumer of cod, with 20 percent of all cod caught around the globe being eaten here. Codfish, which earned the nickname of fiel amigo (faithful friend) in Portugal, is deeply connected to Portuguese heritage, culture, and local cuisine. In addition to Cod, I was surprised to see fancy shops that beautifully displayed --- sardine tin cans. The first time I walked into a sardine shop, I thought it was a fancy soap shop only to stop dead in my tracks to see a wide range of sardine cans that were aged (circa 1920) or flavored (i.e. lemon, chocolate, and vanilla to name a few). It is without saying that Portugal elevated the tin can fish experience and made it into a highly sought-after tourist attraction. I was desperate to know what the chocolate sardines tasted like but Derek was having none of it - and google also provided no answers.
Restaurant Recommendations:
Bastardo, Lisbon: If you are looking for a fresh take on fish and amazing local food, in the heart of Lisbon - look no further. The staff were super friendly and helped explain any questions we had regarding the menu. (See https://restaurantebastardo.com/en/)
Casa Portuguesa do Pastel de Bacalhau: You can find these little shops as you walk around Lisbon, but they are worth trying! The experience includes a codfish and a glass of Port (which you can keep as a souvenir). (See https://www.pasteldebacalhau.pt/)
Alfama Rio: This is a hidden family-owned spot close to the port. Derek had the best homemade food dish of the day, which was a stew-like combination of meats and rice. (See https://www.facebook.com/21Alfama.Rio/ )
Pastéis de Natas
It would go amiss to not mention my favorite pastry of Lisbon - Pastéis de Natas. A palm-sized tart that has a slightly burnt custard in a flaky crust. Throughout the weekend, I unashamedly ate ten Pastéis de Natas. As not all Pasteis de Natas are baked equally - it was my mission to find the best of the best. The history of the Pastéis de Natas is based on monks from a nearby monastery using egg whites to starch nuns' habits. Since they had a ton of leftover yolks they created this flaky dessert. They sold the (secret and highly sought-after) original recipe to Antiga Confeitaria de Belém, but everyone in town boasts to have the best. Challenge accepted.
The Best Pastéis de Natas:
Antiga Confeitaria de Belém (the real OG): A flaky and crispy tart that is close to perfection. Don't feel disheartened by the long line of people waiting to try the original Pastéis de Nata - there are two lines, one for the restaurant experience and one (shorter) line to get the Pastéis de Nata's to-go. We went in the to-go line twice (after we tried it the first time and had to go back for seconds). (See https://pasteisdebelem.pt/)
Manteigaria - Fábrica de Pastéis de Nata: A window into the kitchen offers the unique opportunity to see the Pasteis de Natas being made. This won the best crust for us. (See https://www.facebook.com/manteigaria.oficial/)
Pastelaria Santo Antonio: A combination of quality and service - one of the best by far. (See https://pastelariasantoantonio.negocio.site/
DRINKS
Alcohol
Recommendations:
Port: A wonderfully sweet medium-tannin wine with notes of berries and caramel. Our first taste of Port was while we were walking the streets of Lisbon and had some at Casa Portuguesa do Pastel de Bacalhau. Arguably, Port is my new favorite wine.
Vinho Verde: which literally means 'green wine' refers to Portuguese wine that originated in the historic Minho province in the far north of the country.
Ginja: also referred to as Ginjinha, is a Portuguese liqueur made by infusing ginja berries (sour cherry, also known as the Morello cherry) in alcohol and adding sugar together with other ingredients. Ginja is typically consumed chilled and served in a chocolate shot cup. Cherry liqueur and chocolate is an award-winning combination.
Licor Beirão: A famed Portuguese liqueur flavored with a secret recipe of herbs and spices from all over the world. A massively popular drink in Portugal.
Coffee
"Bom Dia!" Is the greeting for when you pop into a coffeehouse to grab an expresso or pastry. Coffee is so much more than a drink in Portugal but a social experience. An escape away from lunch to talk with friends or a mid-afternoon pick-me-up. Derek and I explored the coffee shops the same way I love to shop, sporadically and jumping in and out.
Ironically, it was by doing this that we came across a historical gem: the home of the original strong expresso, bika, at Café A Brasileira coffeehouse. (See https://www.abrasileira.pt/) I ordered the bika and it was really strong. I dumped in a whole packet of sugar but couldn't get past the overpowering taste of expresso. Derek (a coffee person, unlike my tea preferences palette) loved it.
The coffee, on the other hand, was the best coffee I have ever had. There was not a strong aftertaste and it was smooth and creamy. I would have been content sitting in that beautiful coffee house with a book and a coffee.
Now, don't do what I did and drink an expresso and coffee and go to the world's oldest book store - coincidentally down the same street as Café A Brasileira - as my heart was about to burst with pure joy.
PLACES
Livraria Bertrand
Y'all, I went to the OLDEST bookstore in the World. Founded in 1732, its original store in the Chiado neighborhood of Lisbon was declared to be the oldest operating bookstore in the world by the Guinness Book of World Records in 2011.
My heart felt like it was about to explode out of my chest when I walked in (although that could have been the expresso and coffee). As I bounced from bookcase to bookcase, I felt like there was so much to take in. The bookstore has a cute café tucked at the end and is split into several sections based on genre. There were a couple of bookcases dedicated to English - but regardless, it was an experience and I felt like I was walking on history. #BookishBucketList (See https://www.bertrand.pt/)
Sintra
With its rippling mountains, dewy forests thick with ferns and lichen, exotic gardens, and glittering palaces, Sintra is like a page torn from a fairy tale. Its UNESCO World Heritage–listed center, Sintra-Vila, is dotted with pastel-hued manors folded into luxuriant hills that roll down to the blue Atlantic.
On the hilltop overlooking Sintra is the Pena Palace. This beautiful palace is an outstanding example of the 19th-century Romanticism style of architecture, with its vividly painted terraces and ornamental battlements. A gothic Disney land that defies imagination.
We recommend taking a round-trip train from Lisbon to Sintra (it only cost 10 Euro for Derek and me). There are also lockers at the train station if you have to store your luggage.
Sailboat Sunset Tour with Drinks
This was one of my favorite activities that we did in Lisbon. The two-hour Lisbon city cruise starts on the Tagus River and passes by numerous historical and iconic landmarks.
Our tour guide was knowledgeable, and between, making sure we had blankets and glasses of wine, he leaned against the sail and told us about the history of the city, the bridge, and the statues. It was truly an unforgettable experience. Lisbon would be a dangerous city for me because I would go on sunset tours and drink pastries and coffee all day - I miss it already. (See https://www.getyourguide.com/lisbon-l42/lisbon-city-cruise-t393433/?partner=true)
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